MUZTAGATA 7546m

BC： 4450 meters

BC is at the foot of the mountain. BC is a large, alpine area between two glaciers. 

Route to C1: 

Non-skiers: Walk up ridge and gentle slope to snow line. Small chance may have to put on crampons for the snow slope to C1. Walk up steep-ish and safe slope about an hour to arrive at C1

Skiers: Walk up ridge and gentle slope, then cut right into ravine at about 5000m elevation. From here start skinning up to C1

C1: 5450 meters

C1 to C2 is the steepest part of the climb. From C1 head up and left to skirt around the obvious crevasses. Route continues up and around some large, obvious and safe crevasses before cutting back right and up a long, moderate snow slope to C2.

C2: 6200 meters

C2 to C3 is long and moderate. Normally, this section has the best snow quality for skiers.

C3: 6800 meters

C3 to summit: As you approach the summit, the slope gradually gets more and more gentle. You may see some rocks off to the right but this is a false summit. Must continue up until it is completely flat and you can see two small, obvious rock mounds. This is the summit! Often the summit is icy or hard snow. 

Itinerary:

2024 Muztagata Ski Expedition

Day

Date

D1

22 June

Arrive Kashgar

D2

23 June

Drive to Karakul Lake, Stay in yurts

D3

24 June

Acclimatize, hiking

D4

25 June

Walk to BC (4450 meters)

D5

26 June

Acclimatize / explore glacier

D6

27 June

Walk towards C1 / BC

D7

28 June

BC-C1 (5300m)

D8

29 June

C1 skiing – BC

D9

30 June

BC

D10

1 July

BC-C1

D11

2 July

C1-C2 (6200m)

D12

3 July

C2 towards C3, ski back to BC

D13

4 July

Drive to Tashkhurgan (3-4 hours, 3094m) / shower, rest, eat well

D14

5 July

Tashkhurgan

D15

6 July

Tashkhurgan – BC

D16

7 July

BC-C1

D17

8 July

C1-C2

D18

9 July

C2-C3 (6800m)

D19

10 July

Summit – C1 or BC

D20

11 July

Contingency day

D21

12/13 July

Back to Kashgar

D22

12/13 July

Depart Kashgar

 It is important to be in good cardiovascular shape for climbing Mustagata. It is best if you have some experience at altitude, preferably having slept at over 16,000 feet (5,000 meters).It is not a technically demanding mountain. Other than some basic mountaineering experience and knowledge of roped team travel over glaciers, other necessary skills you will learn during the expedition.Those who are skiing or snow boarding should feel comfortable on un-groomed trails at ski resorts and have ski touring/Randonnee experience on varying snow conditions from hard icy pack to deep powder. You do not need any prior snow shoeing experience to use snowshoes on Mustagata. Snow shoeing skills are easily learned on the spot.If you really want to go and have doubts about your experience, talk with us about your expectations. We look forward to hearing from you.  

Having a safe climb is our primary focus. Mustagata is a high mountain and for many members, this will be their first time at such a high altitude. We take our time acclimatizing, by spending a full day and two nights at beautiful Karakul Lake at the base of Mustagata before walking to base camp. During the expedition, we encourage climbers to use our time-tested acclimatization routine that is flexible and tailored to meet individual member's needs.

We believe that an informed and knowledgeable team member is a safe member. At the beginning of the expedition, we go over on-the-mountain safety protocols such as the prevention of acute mountain sickness (AMS), basics of high-altitude medicine, how to use the two-way radios, rope-team travel, crevasse rescue, and more.

The route is put in and checked for crevasses before members go up and the camps are established ahead of time. On Mustagata there are few natural features to show the way. We mark the route using flagged poles, or wands. In addition, the staff and often many of the members carry GPS units.

We climb together in a group with the leader and staff. For faster members, those that wish to take more time, or if you want more freedom skiing or snowboarding, we will arrange our staff accordingly.

At base camp we have oxygen, a Portable Altitude Chamber (PAC unit - similar to Gamow bag), a Satellite phone, and an extensive medical kit. Each of the three high camps also has medical kits and our staff all carry radios and emergency drugs.

In China, there is no helicopter rescue. This is unfortunate and requires that evacuations be performed overland. If on the off-chance this is required, an evacuation is fortunately fairly straightforward. From base camp, the climber is transported by camel or donkey a short distance to a four-wheel drive jeep which can come relatively close to our base camp. We have a well-established system in place to deal with evacuations.

 As this is a 21-day expedition, there is a large quantity of gear and personal items that you will need. Please click on the link below for the full gear list and details 

 This is a full-service expedition and everything on the mountain is included except your personal items – clothing, equipment, and snack food. You will be expected to carry your personal items on the mountain above base camp (We have the options of full porter system where you can pay an extra fee to have all items carried up and down). Normally this is less than 30 pounds (14 kilograms) and somewhat heavier for the first leg from base camp to camp 1. Many members hire a local to help carry their items up to camp 1. If you think you will need extra help beyond this then you may hire a personal climbing Sherpa. Base camp is quite comfortable. We have a large dining tent for the team, toilette tents, and a gear tent. There is electricity during the evenings (220 volt). We provide for you a sleeping tent and thick foam sleeping mattress. Be sure to bring any special food items if you have any dietary restrictions or foods you enjoy. Some members choose to rent equipment from us in order to reduce the weight of their checked luggage on the airlines.  

The package is dependent on the experience you want to have - Tents can be shared, or personal (1 person). BC now has full wifi capability and is quite modern in the set up.

Included in Package: 

• Experienced leadership and dedicated climbing staff 1:4 staff-to-member ratio
• All climbing permits and other necessary permits & fees
• Full base-camp set-up and meals: 3 meals/day, toilette tents, storage tent, electricity, cook staff, and more
• Mountain equipment 1: high-altitude tents, stoves and gas, ropes, wands (route flagging), safety gear, and more
• Fixing of the route and establishment of high-altitude camps
• Transport of all equipment and supplies to/from base camp: Personal items not to exceed 44 lbs (20 kilograms) 
• Medical supplies, oxygen, two-way radios
• Your personal base-camp sleeping tent and thick foam mattress
• Mountain food at base camp and other camps

Not Included in Package:

• Personal climbing equipment, clothing, and snack/trail food for the climbs and at camps
• Oxygen for personal use on the mountain
• Personal extra porter fees and needs
• Transport to and from Kashgar from your home country
• Extra Hotel and meals in Kashgar
• Gratuities

NOTE:
You may want to rent gear to lower the weight of travel into China

Cost of the Expedition:
7200USD (For the traditional climb option)

7500USD (For the Ski option)
 

Our journey starts from the city of Kashghar in the northwest of China. There are several international flights into this city or from more well-known locations in China: Shanghai, Beijing, Guangzhou, and Hong Kong. After arrival in the city, we will have a bus take us to basecamp, which is located in the plains at the foot of the mountain.